INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN: RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth): INCREASE TIP (for sleeves): DECREASE TO RAGLAN (for jacket):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.
Work until there is 1 stitch left before the marker, 1 yarn over, knit 2 stitches (the marker sits in the middle of these 2 stitches), 1 yarn over (= a total of 2 stitches increased). The yarn overs are knitted twisted on the next round to avoid holes.
All decreases are made from the right side!
Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker, knit 2 stitches together (= 1 stitch decreased), knit 2 (the marker sits in the middle of these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over (= 1 stitch decreased). Decrease like this at each marker (= 2 stitches decreased at each marker and a total of 8 stitches decreased on the row).
DECREASE TIP-1 (for socks):
Decrease 1 stitch before 1 purled stitch as follows: Work until there are 2 stitches left before the 1 purled stitch, knit 2 stitches together.
Decrease 1 stitch after the 1 purled stitch as follows: Slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over.
TOE DECREASE (for socks):
Decrease as follows 3 stitches before the marker: Knit 2 stitches together, knit 1.
Decrease as follows after the marker: Knit 1, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over.
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JACKET:
The piece is worked bottom up. The body is first worked back and forth. Then the sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles before the sleeves and body are continued together back and forth. The bands are then worked and the neck to finish.
BODY:
The piece is worked back and forth.
Cast on (90) 102-118-126-138 (146-162) stitches (including 1 edge stitch in each side of the piece; the bands will be worked later inside this stitch) with circular needle size 2.5 mm/ US 1.5 and Alpaca. Work rib as follows: Knit 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – see description above, knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2 *, work from *-* until there are 4 stitches left, finish with purl 2, knit 1 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue like this until the piece measures (2) 2-3-3-3 (4-4) cm = (3/4”) 3/4”-1 1/8”-1 1/8”-1 1/8” (1 1/2”-1 1/2”). Change to circular needle size 3 mm/ US 2.5. Continue with stocking stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side of the piece. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When the piece measures (9) 13-16-17-18 (21-23) cm = (3 1/2”) 5 1/8”-6 1/4”-6 3/4”-7” (8 1/4”-9”) cast off stitches for the armholes on the next row from the right side as follows: Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, (19) 22-25-27-30 (32-36) stitches stocking stitch (= right front piece), cast off the next (6) 6-8-8-8 (8-8) stitches, work (38) 44-50-54-60 (64-72) stitches stocking stitch (= back piece), cast off the next (6) 6-8-8-8 (8-8) stitches, work (19) 22-25-27-30 (32-36) stitches stocking stitch and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch (= left front piece) = (78) 90-102-110-122 (130-146) stitches. Lay the piece to one side and work the sleeves.
SLEEVE:
The piece is worked in the round.
Cast on (36) 36-36-36-40 (40-44) stitches with double pointed needles size 2.5 mm/ US 1.5 and Alpaca. Work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2). When the rib measures 2 cm = ¾”, change to double pointed needles size 3 mm/ US 2.5, insert 1 marker at the beginning of the round (= mid under sleeve) and continue with stocking stitch. When the piece measures 4 cm = 1 ½” increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker mid under the sleeve – read INCREASE TIP. Increase like this every (2) 1½-1½-1-1 (1½-1½) cm = (¾”) ½”- ½”-3/8”-3/8” (½”- ½”) a total of (3) 6-8-11-11 (13-14) times = (42) 48-52-58-62 (66-72) stitches.
When the piece measures (9½) 13-15½-17-19½ (23-27) cm = (3 ¾”) 5 1/8”-6 1/8”-6 ¾”-7 ¾” (9”-10 5/8”) cast off the first and last (3) 3-4-4-4 (4-4) stitches (= a total of (6) 6-8-8-8 (8-8) stitches cast off) = (36) 42-44-50-54 (58-64) stitches. Lay the piece to one side and work the other sleeve.
YOKE:
Place the sleeves on the same circular needle as the body, where you cast off stitches for the armholes = (150) 174-190-210-230 (246-274) stitches. On the first row, insert 4 markers in the piece as follows, the row is worked from the wrong side: Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, (22) 25-28-31-34 (36-40) stitches stocking stitch, insert 1 marker, (30) 36-38-42-46 (50-56) stitches stocking stitch, insert 1 marker, (44) 50-56-62-68 (72-80) stitches stocking stitch, insert 1 marker, (30) 36-38-42-46 (50-56) stitches stocking stitch, insert 1 marker and finish with (22) 25-28-31-34 (36-40) stitches stocking stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Work (3) 0-0-0-0 (0-0) rows stocking stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side of the piece.
On the next row from the right side decrease to raglan on each side of each marker – read DECREASE TO RAGLAN! Decrease like this on each row from the right side (= every 2nd row) a total of (8) 11-12-14-16 (18-21) times = (86) 86-94-98-102 (102-106) stitches. On the next row from the right side decrease (10) 10-10-14-14 (14-14) stitches evenly on row = (76) 76-84-84-88 (88-92) stitches.
Leave the stitches on the needle; you will now work the bands on each front piece, then work the neck over these stitches.
LEFT BAND:
The piece is worked back and forth.
Knit up (42) 58-70-74-78 (90-102) stitches from the right side inside the 1 edge stitch in garter stitch mid front with circular needle size 2.5 mm/ US 1.5 and Alpaca. Work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2) until there are 2 stitches left, finish with knit 2. When the band measures approx. 2 cm = ¾”, cast off all stitches, make sure that the cast-off edge is not tight; you can use a needle size larger if necessary.
RIGHT BAND:
Work as for the left band but work (4) 5-6-6-6 (6-7) buttonholes evenly spread along the band when it measures approx. 1 cm = 3/8” (later you will work 1 buttonhole on the neck so the first buttonhole on the band is worked approx. 3-4 cm = 1 1/8”-1 1/2” down from the neck. Make the buttonholes approx. 4-5 cm = 1 ½”-2” apart, make them in the purl sections). 1 buttonhole = purl 2 together and make 1 yarn over.
NECK:
Knit up 5 stitches in each of the bands in each side of the piece, inside 1 stitch and place all stitches on circular needle size 2.5 mm/ US 1.5 = (86) 86-94-94-98 (98-102) stitches. Work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 2 cm = 3/4” - cast off for buttonholes by purling the 2 first stitches together and making 1 yarn over on 1st row (= from right side). Cast off, and make sure that the cast-off edge is not tight; you can use a needle size larger if necessary.
ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under each sleeve. Sew buttons onto the left band.
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SOCK:
Cast on 40-44-48 (52-56) stitches with double pointed needles size 2.5 mm/ US 1.5 and light beige. Work rib in the round (= knit 2 /purl 2) until the piece measures 5-6-7 (9-10) cm = 2”-2 3/8”-2 3/4” (3 1/2”-4”).
Place the last stitch worked on the same needle as the first 19-19-23 (23-27) stitches on the round = 20-20-24 (24-28) stitches on needle for heel.
The other 20-24-24 (28-28) stitches (= top of foot) are placed on 1 thread - the rib on top of the foot will now start and finish with purl 1.
Work stocking stitch back and forth over the heel stitches for 3-3-4 (4-4) cm = 1 1/8”-1 1/8”-1 1/2” (1 1/2”-1 1/2”). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Insert 1 marker in the middle of these stitches (= 10-12-12 (14-14) stitches on each side of the marker). On the next row from the right side decrease as follows:
ROW 1 (= from the right side): Knit until there are 4 stitches left before the marker, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over (= 1 stitch decreased), knit 4, knit the next 2 stitches together (= 1 stitch decreased), knit to end of row = 18-18-22 (22-26) stitches.
ROW 2 (= from wrong side): Purl.
ROW 3: Knit until there are 3 stitches left before the marker, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over (= 1 stitch decreased), knit 2, knit the next 2 stitches together (= 1 stitch decreased), knit to end of row = 16-16-20 (20-24) stitches. Cast off the remaining stitches and sew them together in the outermost loop of the outermost stitch (= mid under the foot).
Then knit up 24-24-28 (28-32) stitches in the outermost loop of the outermost stitch over the heel. Place the stitches from the thread back on the needles = 44-48-52 (56-60) stitches. Continue working in the round. NOTE: Work rib over the 20-24-24 (28-28) stitches on top of foot and stocking stitch over the 24-24-28 (28-32) stitches under the foot. AT THE SAME TIME on every 2nd round decrease 1 stitch on each side of the rib on top of foot – read DECREASE TIP-1! Decrease like this a total of 2 times = 40-44-48 (52-56) stitches.
When the sock measures 7½-8½-9 (11-12) cm = 3”-3 1/4”-3 1/2” (4 3/8”-4 3/4”) from the back of the heel, (there is now approx. 2½-2½-3 (3-4) cm = 1”-1”-1 1/8” (1 1/8”-1 1/2”) left to finished length) divide the stitches so that there are 20-22-24 (26-28) stitches both on top of and under the foot. Insert 1 marker in each side. Work stocking stitch in the round over all stitches - AT THE SAME TIME decrease 1 stitch on each side of each marker – read TOE DECREASE!
Decrease like this every 2nd round a total of 5-5-6 (6-7) times = 20-24-24 (28-28) stitches. Work all stitches together 2 and 2 = 10-12-12 (14-14) stitches. Cut the strand, pull it through the remaining stitches, pull tight and fasten well. The sock measures approx. 10-11-12 (14-16) cm = 4”-4 3/8”-4 3/4” (5 1/2”-6 1/4”). Work the other sock in the same way.
All measurements in charts are in cm.
